Jumping the bridge would only get one the PP's "pure" DC (I hope...), and the question that churns in my mind is, how does the PP's DC/AC converter not mess up the sound?  Yes, there will likely be switching noise, and it is also quite likely that there is some sort of step-up involved, to keep the processing unit smaller.  And I suspect that this step-up is - somehow - the source of the "umami".  If to jump the amp's bridge, then the AC/DC is still in play along with the battery, and according to people who comment online, AC mains and possibly self noises get through the PP balwarks.  Since there seem to be a few people who get acceptable electricity most of the time from operational PPs, and since this aceptable AC may yet scope poorly, where and what is the critical additive factor?  Remember, even the big PP only uses a 7 Ah battery, which is what I use to drive my tiny DAC. And, as Romy graciously pointed out, using a really big battery would fuse the PP AC/DC circuit...

Best regards,
Paul S

Canuck wrote:

Romy        Have you ever tried a PUREPOWER device feeding something like the Torus RM20 which  has a huge transformer and then out to the components? The Torus stores a lot of energy in those huge transformers. Do you feel this would have any merit?    Also, what about skipping all that and using something like a highend honda inverter generator( can even use remote startup). In your opinion would something like this work ?

Romy the Cat wrote:

It was an interning event last night. The sound turned incredibly bad from electricity perspective. I did not have anything like this for a year or so it was very bad and it was clearly electrical. The PP2000 was working fine and the distortions in the raw side of the wall were incredibly low – it was almost a perfect sinusoid. Still, despite that there were no visible signs of problems the sound was horrible and disconnection from the grid did fix all problems immediately. I was wondering what it might be. Today I was talking with Pure Power asking about the shipping date of my PP3000 and I asked them if they experience anything similar. They told me that they did observe that they have witnessed that noise between neutral and ground med some systems go sound. This is very interesting as I did not monitor this noise. I was under impression that this noise is constant for any given inhalation but PurePower suggests that it is not. Well, yesterday there was first day of rain, perhaps it wet ground and did make something special ground condition that made the day special. Who knows… I uselessly measured the voltage between neutral and ground and anything under 1.5V I considered acceptable however I did not look into the noise level and noise structure. Today sound is fine and I did make some initial digs. I will compare them with the day what the sound will be VERY good or VERY bad. Take a look This is the neutral and ground noise at the exit of PP2000.  All above is .5V per square.  This is the neutral and ground noise at the entrance of PP2000.   This is the neutral and ground noise at the wall, the entrance of PP2000 with PP2000’s main switch off. This is the same as above only with .05V per square. Then I desided to hear how the noise sounds. I took my HP selective voltmeter and filter out all sun 10.000Hz. The nose was very distinctive 33dB and with very characteristic whistling.   Let to see what other day will bring. I am very curious to know what it will be. Is it possible that THIS nose makes all difference? It would be not a big deal to shunt this nose with a cap; I wonder how it will affect sound…. Rgs, Romy the Cat

If you follow this thread and my successes and tribulation with PurePower regenerators than you remember that I had problem with sound running two PP2000 for right and left channels.  So, I had everything, including my DAW plugged into on PP2000, recently into PP3000, and I felt that it was better configuration. Theoretically I would like to have computer with all its switching power supply to be ploughed into some kind of separate isolated secretly, apart with the rest of my analog, linear PS gear but the idea did not go too far.

Two day back, making some experiment with PP3000 and having it turn on and off I got sick from my dying DAW get constantly rebooted. So, I took my old PP2000, install it in basement and powered my computer from it, driven this PP2000 from another half of 240V line.  So, effectively I got PP2000 driven from one side of 240V and powering only computer and PP3000 driven from another half of 240V powering my entire system with analog PS. The PP3000 and PP2000 not are sitting very far from each other, in fact in different rooms. PP2000 runs 7% load and PP3000 with power amps on does around 45% load.

You know I like the result on analog side (PP3000) very much. The sound got a bit more “useful crunch”. I did not check the DAW sound and it is frankly complicated to do. Now, I am not sure that some “gain in sound” on my analog side was due to elimination of the noise feedback from DAW power supply or it was juts normal improvement of electricity this time of week/month/season. As time goes by I will be able to say it but for now it looks like it is a good configuration. I need to shut down the PP2000 and to see it is it is still has no affected the sound of PP3000. The point is that PP2000 and PP3000 are still connected via ground of the playback. I need to reconnect all devises (monitor, USB switch boxes and anything else that use PC) to make sure that it will be no path (on internal side) between that PP2000 and PP3000 across the playback grounds. The only path that I would like to remain is the connection from my DAW to A/D and D/A converters across Lynx card. My premises is that Lynx card runs AES/EBU Digital I/O digital interfaces that by default employ isolation transformers, so it will be no noise ground loop of any kind between PP2000 and PP3000. It is possible that within this, no grounds connected configuration 2 PurePower unit would be able to work in the same playback. The idea to separate switching and linear power supply into different regenerators does strike me as promising, or at least logical.

I will be making another experiment tomorrow and will try to install a new dedicated power line for audio. I say “another experiment” as the dedicated line that I installed as soon I move into the hour did not sound good, I have no idea why.

This time I will do slightly different. It is be 240V 6ga copper run but not into the walls, along with the rest of the house wires but directly to the dedicated power receptacles behind my playback, in the diagonal of the house, pretty much perpendicular to any power wires. It will not be too ugly and the run will be at the selling of the basement, well it will be ugly but it is basement, who care how it look like in there.

I did some research about circuit breaker and chose one model that I feel better. It is two-poll 40A breaker; I was not able to find this type for lower current. So, it will be 40A power line terminated with L5-30P power outlet, rated for 30A. The PurePower people accommodated me with twist-lock power cord for my PP3000. I do not know what gage wire it will be use but I presume it will be 30A rated as well. The audio circuit breaker will be the very first breaker in my first main power panel, right after the 200A main breaker. The 240V feed will run just behind the location where the PP3000 installed and then it will be split on two half of 120V. Let see how it all works and it gives any better sound then my utility power output (that I admit sounds the best in my house, I have no explanation why.)

The idea behind this dedicated line is to minimize the amount of noise that goes into PP3000. I use a lot of dimmers in my listening room. The SS dimmers, in the way how uses nowadays are one of the most horrible things for sound. If you have one single active dimmer in your house then you audio NEVER sound right. I have zillion tests and experiments about it over the years. The PurePower regenerators absolutely immune to dimmers, I mean I can use 10 dimmers in my listening room and the sound, if I power everything from PurePower is undistinguishable from sound with no dimmers at all. (I can very objectively measure the noise from dimmers outside of PP3000). Still, if the PurePower does not worsen sound when dimmers are active then it still might be beneficial to power PurePower with cleaner power lines. I have refrigerator in house, the heater pumper, the pool pump, the house lighting, and all kitchen appliances, at least 3 computers all time on (2 of them Compaq and HP Servers with dual power supplies), UPS station for the servers…. They are not a lot but they do produce some local noise that might (or might not be) worth to isolate or at least to minimize.

Again, I am not confident that this new version of dedicated power line will make any difference but the only way to say anything is to try. The proper way to do it would be to run a dedicated parallel run directly from service entry, across a new dedicated power meter and to own dedicated 100A entry panel serving ONLY ONE dedicated audio power line.  I might convert this line that I will be installing tomorrow into something like this but I need to educate myself about sonic consignees of power meters. Perhaps I will be the Phase 2 of the project and it will not be difficult to do if I chose to go there. Let see if the Phase 1 will be beneficial and if it was then I can take a notch further.

So, if I have no posts after tomorrow than I have electrocuted myself.

Canuck wrote:

From what I understand, if you have dimmer switches they will present a "noise" problem for anything on the same panel.  One thing that could help and possibly significantly would be to do a pony box off the panel and hopefully as far away as possible...