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12-21-2009 Post does not mapped to Knowledge Tree
Romy the Cat


Boston, MA
Posts 10,052
Joined on 05-28-2004

Post #: 126
Post ID: 12522
Reply to: 11190
External 15” into 4’x6’ from Audio 1954
fiogf49gjkf0d

ExternalMidbassHorn_Audio_1954.jpg




"I wish I could score everything for horns." - Richard Wagner. "Our writing equipment takes part in the forming of our thoughts." - Friedrich Nietzsche
01-25-2010 Post does not mapped to Knowledge Tree
Markus
Posts 68
Joined on 03-07-2007

Post #: 127
Post ID: 12765
Reply to: 12522
Romy, you can stop searching
fiogf49gjkf0d
http://cgi.ebay.com/Bass-Horns-for-Ale-Western-Electric-JBL-Altec-Drivers_W0QQitemZ300388291899
01-25-2010 Post does not mapped to Knowledge Tree
Romy the Cat


Boston, MA
Posts 10,052
Joined on 05-28-2004

Post #: 128
Post ID: 12767
Reply to: 12765
I see nothing to be overwhelmed…
fiogf49gjkf0d

 Markus wrote:
http://cgi.ebay.com/Bass-Horns-for-Ale-Western-Electric-JBL-Altec-Drivers_W0QQitemZ300388291899

I have seen it and I do not like it. I applaud to the efforts but the pictures of horns do not make me aroused.  47 feet will give you around 5msec delay – this is a LOT. The horn itself is just a part of the game. The key is how it was used, how it was fixed into the room. How the rest of the channels were organized with respect to the given large mouth. That is very complex and to do it properly it is much more complex then to built 47 feet horn. The horn like this might look like an impressive accomplishment but it might have very limited use, if any use at all. If it is done properly then people do not sell those things but they die with them, probably inside of them...

The caT


"I wish I could score everything for horns." - Richard Wagner. "Our writing equipment takes part in the forming of our thoughts." - Friedrich Nietzsche
01-25-2010 Post does not mapped to Knowledge Tree
Markus
Posts 68
Joined on 03-07-2007

Post #: 129
Post ID: 12771
Reply to: 12767
On a more serious note
fiogf49gjkf0d
Romy, your stance is that all a horn does is provide equalization. Is a horn the best way to provide equalization at the frequencies that are this thread's subject? I would think that a careful arrangement of direct radiators would avoid quite a lot of problems that the horn introduces.
01-25-2010 Post does not mapped to Knowledge Tree
Paul S
San Diego, California, USA
Posts 2,577
Joined on 10-12-2006

Post #: 130
Post ID: 12772
Reply to: 12771
By "Careful Arrangement"
fiogf49gjkf0d

Markus, I speak as a non-commited direct radiator guy when I say that the horn EQ as a raw principle is a very powerful model that theoretically opens the door to the sort of overall efficiency that direct radiators can only dream of.  Then I will turn right around and say that if one is OK with low(er) efficiency, then indeed, horns look like a lot more trouble and expense than they would otherwise be worth.  Ironically (?), I think that many of my own hi-fi shortfalls are tied to compromises I've made with respect to efficiency, which is always a factor, after all; it's not like that just goes away.

Still, I believe that the key to any successful hi-fi installation is tied up in the idea of "careful arrangement", since care with implementing highly-developed demands will probably have more to do with success in the end than topology will.  Trite words by now, but still true.

Best regards,
Paul S

01-25-2010 Post does not mapped to Knowledge Tree
Saturntube
Posts 24
Joined on 07-08-2005

Post #: 131
Post ID: 12774
Reply to: 12772
My troubles with direct radiators
fiogf49gjkf0d
I have been playing around with speakers for a long time, and things started snapping when I got into horns.  I have a system right now with an upperbass horn from 140 hz turned form MDF up to around 700 hz, to another horn, and another and a super tweeter.  Now for midbass I have 2 pcs 10" drivers per side only to go from say 150 hz down to 50-60 hz (this can be movable) crossing over to a 15" servo controlled subwoofer per side. This are nice aluminum 10" drivers set up in an independent  beautifull sealed bass cabinet with good volume,  it is made out of stainless steel reinforced pipe with several materials inside to effectively dampen the steel but keep a rigid environment. I completely hate them!  When I try to adjust volume or freq of the high pass xover I listen to deep female voices, strangely so, and this horrid woofers make a terrible resonance like they have a huge chest, so when I finally get rid of the chest resonance the midbass is completely gone,  no chest pounding bass,  no kick drum, and male voices sound thin,  I try to cut the lower end of the drivers and raise the subwoofer up to say 70-80hz and this helps a bit but it is still midbass shy, as soon as i touch the volume knob on the horrid midbass drivers that resonance starts again...  A friend said,  easy solution,  get a remote volume control just for those drivers and you can lower or raise the volume depending on the CD you are playing,  or well the song you are playing,  well really the part of the song......  IMO the problem is this drivers are too slow for the complementing horns in the system, if I were to cross over to a mid range driver or a ubicuos tweeter crossed at 2khz the woofers would sound just fine!  but my system would be crap!I am now experimenting with bigger faster drivers and even tapped horn designs,  but the cabinets are not so nice!So this thread of a huge midbass horn is, at least for me, a way to show me how much of a wimp I am that I still dont have a house breaking midbass horn!
01-26-2010 Post does not mapped to Knowledge Tree
Romy the Cat


Boston, MA
Posts 10,052
Joined on 05-28-2004

Post #: 132
Post ID: 12775
Reply to: 11190
The first interesting arrangement
fiogf49gjkf0d
I find an interring house that I like. Ironically it is very much not what I was looking audio-wise. It has a lot of real-estate lucidness and I feel it has a lot of very interesting audio opportunities. The listening room is small, 2 times smaller than I would consider but the way HOW the room located in the house makes it very attractive. The 19 by 20 feet room has high-pitch cathedral selling and very wide opening to everywhere. The combined volume of the room becomes very nice - over 800sq feet. The room is suspended, which sucks – it will take a LOT of power to pump lover bass over that room – forget tube electronics. All together is look very nice and feel it has a lot of opportunity. Do not ask me questions about the time alignment of the midbass horn – I do not know yet.

NewRoom_Posible.JPG



"I wish I could score everything for horns." - Richard Wagner. "Our writing equipment takes part in the forming of our thoughts." - Friedrich Nietzsche
01-26-2010 Post does not mapped to Knowledge Tree
Paul S
San Diego, California, USA
Posts 2,577
Joined on 10-12-2006

Post #: 133
Post ID: 12776
Reply to: 12775
Loading Zone
fiogf49gjkf0d

Romy, I realize that you have a good deal more acoustic drive available than I do, but here is my experience, FWIW:  I lived in a larger version of a very similar configuration for 13 years.  My listening room was in "the same" spot as you picture, with a 20' high 1/2 vaulted ceiling.   I could not really load it with 100 wpc (RM9) driving 92 dB 5-way speakers (Fulton modulars), despite a solid slab floor and a longer [reflective] wall section opposite the drivers.  I got some very nice sound at times, but no real room loading I could build on.  Later, I got some nice sound and very nice ambience (when the power was good) with 7 wpc Wright 2A3 SETs driving the 97 dB DEBZs, but this combo would not load the room properly, either.  IMO, the ML2s are at the peg driving the DEBZs into a 17' X 21' X 8' hard-plastered room with raised, carpeted floors.  What there is of LF has some redeeming qualities, but nothing serious yet.  I am a hopeful guy, and I still believe I can tweak my way toward a more loaded room; but I am not where I'd like to be, with plenty of power to burn.

As we have discussed, much can be done with a raised floor if there is underfloor access and a way to solidly shore up the floor from the ground under it.  OTOH, the classic yuppie "apartment", with raised, carpeted floors and high, vaulted ceilings (volume!), and no way to shore up the floors, is the ultimate energy sink.

I am not sure from the little reading I have done on the subject, but I think there is a whole school of followers that aim the speakers directly at their ears and they do not try to load the room.  Duddleston (sp?), Geddes and some others, I think, might have some ideas for people who cannot or do not want to load their rooms.  I have no serious idea how they would do LF.  If I had to guess, I would guess biased plate amps or similar exponential power schemes.

Paul S

01-26-2010 Post does not mapped to Knowledge Tree
Romy the Cat


Boston, MA
Posts 10,052
Joined on 05-28-2004

Post #: 134
Post ID: 12779
Reply to: 12776
An interesting room-loading post
fiogf49gjkf0d

An interesting post, Paul, thanks. It looks like my fear or bass loading of this room were not accidental. If I get this room then it would be even worse in my case. Your have solid slab floor –something that I would like to have. But this house does not have it. What it has is 1700sq feet basement under it as shitty floor with holes in the listening room. I perfectly understand the frustration of the people who would love to pump that space of neat 3400 sq foot from a pair of speaker with imbedded bass drivers. Would it be big Wilsons of small monitors with yellow driver is irrelevant. There is in that my perspective house some feature that kind of unique and made me really like it. This front wall behind the speakers is very easy removable and the room can be easily reconfigurable into “no back wall” type of the configuration. So, we are taking about truly near infinite bass loading scenario… I did not play with it a lot but I certainly would not attack the problem with driving my bass horns lower as some idiots do (The Oswald Mill idiot with his repulsive bass would the first who come to my mind).

So, I think with a proper dedicated LF modules and enough power of amplification this space might be handled. The house has a lot of hidden positive moments for bass enforcement that I have recognized and a lot of bad things for the same bass task. How all those bad and good things will work all together is very hard to say. I would like to see the faces of those people when I ring LF speaker with real-time analyzer to the home inspection….

Anyhow, I have a good feeling about this one. I do not know if I get good sound in there but this room is very inspiring for me canvas to replicate my sound but in larger scale and more comfortable listening. Let see how it goes….

THe Cat


"I wish I could score everything for horns." - Richard Wagner. "Our writing equipment takes part in the forming of our thoughts." - Friedrich Nietzsche
01-26-2010 Post does not mapped to Knowledge Tree
Romy the Cat


Boston, MA
Posts 10,052
Joined on 05-28-2004

Post #: 135
Post ID: 12780
Reply to: 12779
Will the Cat become an “industry professional”?
fiogf49gjkf0d
If I were an idiot and were interested to sell audio from home, as many dealers do, then…. if I get this new houses then I might open a business with a cool intricate name: “The Battle Road Audio”.  Here is the quandary to the readers of this site: why such a name?  The winner of the guess competition will get… pretty much nothing. But I need to admit that the name “The Battle Road Audio” is very attractive in the context.

The Cat


"I wish I could score everything for horns." - Richard Wagner. "Our writing equipment takes part in the forming of our thoughts." - Friedrich Nietzsche
01-27-2010 Post does not mapped to Knowledge Tree
Romy the Cat


Boston, MA
Posts 10,052
Joined on 05-28-2004

Post #: 136
Post ID: 12782
Reply to: 12780
The tremendous opportunity.
fiogf49gjkf0d

Ok, I do officially like this “Battle Road” hours. Upon many considerations (and there are 4 ways to implement the midbass horn in that room) I have inclined to my leading idea to do it elegant and with time alignment.  The drawing below and a above are way out right proportion and dimensions are by my visual assessment. Still the idea is there.  I am considering to put two straight, irregular pentagon  or heptagon shaped, 12’-13’, Hypobaric 0.7, 45Hz horns in the attic of the house and to have the mouths to fire into the bid room. This will kill with one hit the following objectives:

1)      Not notable in the room

2)      Time-alignable

3)      Not direct radiation and allowing wave maturation

4)      Do not destroy property too much

5)      Kill the fist reflection for the MF channels

6)      Elegant.

I do see in this a tremendous opportunity.

NewRoom_Posible2.jpg

The Cat


"I wish I could score everything for horns." - Richard Wagner. "Our writing equipment takes part in the forming of our thoughts." - Friedrich Nietzsche
01-27-2010 Post does not mapped to Knowledge Tree
zanon
Posts 54
Joined on 11-14-2009

Post #: 137
Post ID: 12783
Reply to: 12776
Aim direct radiators at ears
fiogf49gjkf0d
Paul S:

My room setup is way too large. Vaulted ceilings, and this huge L where my listening area is in the top half of the L's spine (|) and the (_) is dining area and a corridor. It gets worse, there is also open space to the kitchen etc. etc. So it's more like a U_ is that makes any sense.

Raised floor and carpet on top of that.

So I say screw it and point speakers to my ears, and corner load subwoofer. btw. more power does not really solve the problem. You can get LF to start "throbbing" in the area, but the room simply does not load.
01-27-2010 Post does not mapped to Knowledge Tree
zanon
Posts 54
Joined on 11-14-2009

Post #: 138
Post ID: 12784
Reply to: 12780
Why call it "Battle Road"
fiogf49gjkf0d
...the house is close to Paul Revere's ride?
01-27-2010 Post does not mapped to Knowledge Tree
Romy the Cat


Boston, MA
Posts 10,052
Joined on 05-28-2004

Post #: 139
Post ID: 12785
Reply to: 12784
The second American Revolution?
fiogf49gjkf0d

Yep, you were close. The listening room is looking right to the conservation land, in the middle of which there was the original Battle Road. So, that proverbial “shot that was heard around the world” was fired some in the backyard of that house.

http://www.woburnhistoricalsociety.com/images/buildingsandsites/battleroad.htm

I was talking with city hall’s housing authority and was inquiring about any perspective lend development and I was told that this conservation land is dead-untouchable. They told however that sometimes they have minutemen reenactment in the conservation - I afraid that it will be where I was planning to install my antenna tower. If I get the house then I would need to register as a republican and apply to a license to put some landmines around my antenna tower. If any of those minutemen will interfere with my Bruckner then I will start a second American Revolution...

The Cat


"I wish I could score everything for horns." - Richard Wagner. "Our writing equipment takes part in the forming of our thoughts." - Friedrich Nietzsche
01-27-2010 Post does not mapped to Knowledge Tree
Paul S
San Diego, California, USA
Posts 2,577
Joined on 10-12-2006

Post #: 140
Post ID: 12786
Reply to: 12783
Atmospheric Pressure vs Tonal Pressure
fiogf49gjkf0d
Zanon, I know exactly what you are saying. Actually, the tonal pressure is not common anywhere, mostly because few people understand it, but also because one needs to develop and maintain broad spectrum pressure in the room, not just the LF farts, and not just noise, and this takes a lot of work, since there is no plug-and-play solution nor even an "industry" model for this.  It can be pretty tough to do it in a large space or a soft space, all right, and it is about impossible in a large soft space without taking fairly drastic measures. 

In trying to cope with these problems, I have messed with "anti-damping treatments" with some success.  Basically, you use hard surfacces, possibly including heavy "screens" to deflect the sound, and you get as much of the over-stuffed stuff out of the area as you can.  Also, not everyone will do it, but there are structurally acceptable ways to put tile on raised floors, and area rugs over tile are not the problem that carpet over padding is in these situations.  Hard to guess about WAF, but there should be tasteful solutions if the will and the aesthetic are joined in the enterprise.

Or, for any number of reasons you might be a candidate for the Synergy horn, or the like.  I've not heard one, but what I have read makes me very curious for someone else to buy one.

Best regards,
Paul S
01-28-2010 Post does not mapped to Knowledge Tree
Wojtek
Pinckney (MI), United States
Posts 178
Joined on 09-01-2005

Post #: 141
Post ID: 12788
Reply to: 12786
The same problem here
fiogf49gjkf0d
but I attached a double layer of 3'x5' cement boards (wonder board) under the suspended floor (crawl space) and it seems to help with bass a little.It's a cheap and fairly easy solution ($9 for a board) if you have an acces and helping hand.
Regards, W
01-28-2010 Post does not mapped to Knowledge Tree
Romy the Cat


Boston, MA
Posts 10,052
Joined on 05-28-2004

Post #: 142
Post ID: 12789
Reply to: 12788
The suspended floor treatment – some questions.
fiogf49gjkf0d

 Wojtek wrote:
but I attached a double layer of 3'x5' cement boards (wonder board) under the suspended floor (crawl space) and it seems to help with bass a little. It's a cheap and fairly easy solution ($9 for a board) if you have an acces and helping hand.

Wojtek, interesting, can your elaborate on it? You placed under the floor (from the basement) the 3'x5' cement boards right under the speaker? How you were able to do it? Did you floor supporting beams allow you to do it? What is the distance between your cement boards and the floor? Is the floor carpeted? How much dB attention you get at 100Hz at the location of your cement boards?  When you said “seems to help with bass a little” then it is your subjective feeling (that might be due to electricity change) or it is the actual measurable change of amplitude? What the percentage of the whole rooms represent those 3'x5' space?  What LF section your and how you drive it?

It might be an interesting solution, I just need more data.

The Cat


"I wish I could score everything for horns." - Richard Wagner. "Our writing equipment takes part in the forming of our thoughts." - Friedrich Nietzsche
01-28-2010 Post does not mapped to Knowledge Tree
Paul S
San Diego, California, USA
Posts 2,577
Joined on 10-12-2006

Post #: 143
Post ID: 12792
Reply to: 12789
Bang for the Buck Approaches
fiogf49gjkf0d
Good call, Wojtek.

Depending on access, the cement boards could probably be 5/8" drywall, for savings on material and easier installation.  Moisure resistant drywall can be used over a dirt crawl space.  The cement board is a PITA to cut around ducts, posts, etc., and it is also more difficult than drywall to screw onto the floor joists, and it is much harder to "tape".  If the floor will support the extra weight, or if the floor is going to be shored up, and the budget allows it, drywall can be doubled, staggering the joints (and using long screws for the second layer!). 

If the underfloor space is not already fully insulated, then do this first.  There is even acoustical insulation available that does work better for sound than normal fiberglass thermal insulation, albeit at a steep increase in cost, and it is hard to find outside of large population centers.  When blocking for the drywall, frame access under the hi-fi equipment, for wiring, etc.  For that matter, be sure to frame for future access to plumbing clean-outs, traps, risers, etc., as well.

Insulation and drywall are very nice, but they are not a substitute for shoring up the floor.  In many cases, this can be a night and day difference.

Best regards,
Paul S
01-28-2010 Post does not mapped to Knowledge Tree
Wojtek
Pinckney (MI), United States
Posts 178
Joined on 09-01-2005

Post #: 144
Post ID: 12793
Reply to: 12792
It was fairly simple in my case
fiogf49gjkf0d
I have so call "Michigan basement" which is rised (~4 ft) crawl space. Although the first floor of my small house is semi open floor plan 21'x21' the 10' middle wall dividing and separating the kitchen space makes setting difficult. I have K-horns in the corners of the other (than kitchen) 10' space .Hapily in the crawlspace under the listening audio area there are no ducts, pipes etc. so I just simply screwed the boards using drywall screws to floor beams (over insulation)on the 10'x9' square.(the way you attach ceiling drywall) and supported the section with 2"x6" studs (just for the case). I don't have carpet (hate carpets although in winter things get drafty ) only wool area rug. Before , bass (in a case of K-horns midbass really) literally leaked trough the floor. It is much better now (subjective impression) fuller , and more articulated. Simply room sounds more "ballanced" now. If your new (future)house has a carpet I would think of putting those boards under the carpet ,one or two layers (single cement board is 0.5"tick).Heck ,it would be easy to experiment without and construction. Rent the Home Depot truck for couple hrs ,bring 12 or more cement boards (they are much more menageable than 4x8 drywall and not that heavy) . Cover floor, or carpet with painter's plastic cover lay down boards on the floor single or double layer on choosen spot and listen ,measure. If the results are negligible or not to your liking pack the boards on the truck and return to Home Depot. You're out of $50 rental bucks and 5 Lbs lighter (from excerciseSmile.
Regards, W
01-28-2010 Post does not mapped to Knowledge Tree
zanon
Posts 54
Joined on 11-14-2009

Post #: 145
Post ID: 12794
Reply to: 12793
I used planks of wood
fiogf49gjkf0d
Very interesting.

I spent a bunch of time messing around with slot loading under my druids, and then put 1 inch thick planks of wood I had lying around under them instead. Both tone and amplitude of bass improved noticeably (although please note we are talking about druid bass which has been discussed to death elsewhere in this forum). Another benefit was that it was easy to slide the speakers around on their little wooden surfboards, so I could handle positioning more easily.

Now I am wondering if a denser material may further increase tone and amplitude of bass.
01-29-2010 Post does not mapped to Knowledge Tree
Romy the Cat


Boston, MA
Posts 10,052
Joined on 05-28-2004

Post #: 146
Post ID: 12797
Reply to: 12793
To seal or not to seal?
fiogf49gjkf0d
Thanks, Wojtekm it sounds like interesting experience. I would mention that you use K-horns and with them the loading would be much more capriccios then it would it be with stand-alone infinite-baffle bass section. Did you seal the space between the panels and the space between the panels and the walls?


"I wish I could score everything for horns." - Richard Wagner. "Our writing equipment takes part in the forming of our thoughts." - Friedrich Nietzsche
01-29-2010 Post does not mapped to Knowledge Tree
Romy the Cat


Boston, MA
Posts 10,052
Joined on 05-28-2004

Post #: 147
Post ID: 12800
Reply to: 12782
The midbass horn: the first uppercut from real-estate.
fiogf49gjkf0d

 Romy the Cat wrote:

Ok, I do officially like this “Battle Road” hours. Upon many considerations (and there are 4 ways to implement the midbass horn in that room) I have inclined to my leading idea to do it elegant and with time alignment.  The drawing below and a above are way out right proportion and dimensions are by my visual assessment. Still the idea is there.  I am considering to put two straight, irregular pentagon  or heptagon shaped, 12’-13’, Hypobaric 0.7, 45Hz horns in the attic of the house and to have the mouths to fire into the bid room. This will kill with one hit the following objectives:

1)      Not notable in the room

2)      Time-alignable

3)      Not direct radiation and allowing wave maturation

4)      Do not destroy property too much

5)      Kill the fist reflection for the MF channels

6)      Elegant.

I do see in this a tremendous opportunity.

Hm, I was so proud about myself for a few days. I thought I have a key how to render my midbass horn in perfects time-aligned position and to make it literally invisible in my new room. It was such an elegant design!!! It still might be renderable but I discover some aspects in the new house that can make it very hard to implement. I was already thinking about the color patter of my new horns! Such a blow!!!

Anyhow, if I get this house then the configuration of the room still allows me to implement very good midbass horn but it will be no time alignment.  That is not good and I need to think about it. To have midbass with 12-15msec delay… I do not know if I want even to experiment with it.

The Cat


"I wish I could score everything for horns." - Richard Wagner. "Our writing equipment takes part in the forming of our thoughts." - Friedrich Nietzsche
01-29-2010 Post does not mapped to Knowledge Tree
Wojtek
Pinckney (MI), United States
Posts 178
Joined on 09-01-2005

Post #: 148
Post ID: 12802
Reply to: 12800
I didn't have to seal
fiogf49gjkf0d
because floor josts support and extend the walls (they are solid  2"x6")so just screwed the board tightly to them. Because I needed the boards only within 10' so I have 3 rows of 5' +5' with the seam in the middle. I cut the second layer of bards so it overlaped the seam in the middle. I might plaster it over when it'll warm up. Please note that I use K-horn bass bins only for bass, midbass and experiment with free standing upper bass ,mid tweeter sections. Same problem with time misalignment but since the space is so confined and tight it is what it is. I agree that corner horns are more demanding on surrounding surfaces but even mini monitor without notable bass below 60 hz performs better in the room. Anyway it is only a half solution but It was cheap, fairly easy and I like the effect.
Regards, W
01-29-2010 Post does not mapped to Knowledge Tree
miab
Canada
Posts 46
Joined on 02-07-2008

Post #: 149
Post ID: 12804
Reply to: 12789
Proper structure stiffening
fiogf49gjkf0d
 The proper way is little more involving but doable as I believe you don't mind customizing structure as you will probably be in the new house for good or a very long time. Sister joists PL glued and screwed to original joist (wood or engineered( full thickness, no i beam)) or equal distance between the existing, with a polyurathane foam sprayed full depth of cavity between. Moisten the undercarriage of the floor above with fine water spray for a couple days before to allow all wood to accept a little moisture into the grain before spraying the polyurathne. It will 'glue' everything together. From the top, if you have carpet/hardwood, rip it up and glue and screw (every 6") 3/4" FIR plywood onto existing plywood/plank boards. It's a good idea to screw every 6" existing plywood/plank floor into old and new joists below before new Fir plywood on top. Then finish floor with whatever you like (ie. preferable carpet). For extra measure you could plywood the underneath of joists with fir plywood again.
 After all this 1 or 2 new crossbeam structure (Post and beam) should be placed at a 1/3rd distance from existing post beam supports, tighten upwards and then tightenend again after some time. Yo can actually affect resonance of floor above by manipulating the post/beam tightening. Hopefully you have access underneath and not too much electrical wires or plumbing or ductwork running through/under the existing joists. You might need the appropriate trade in to disassemble the utility until the new sisiter joists are in.
 After this you will think and feel you are on a concrete slab. It sounds like much work but could be done in 2 days with proper planning from utility trades.
01-29-2010 Post does not mapped to Knowledge Tree
miab
Canada
Posts 46
Joined on 02-07-2008

Post #: 150
Post ID: 12805
Reply to: 12800
What did you find?
fiogf49gjkf0d
 Romy the Cat wrote:
Hm, I was so proud about myself for a few days. I thought I have a key how to render my midbass horn in perfects time-aligned position and to make it literally invisible in my new room. It was such an elegant design!!! It still might be renderable but I discover some aspects in the new house that can make it very hard to implement. I was already thinking about the color patter of my new horns! Such a blow!!!


What did you find in the new house that will not allow you to do that? There might be a way around it.
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