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  »  New  45Hz Bass Horn..  Can We Ever be Saved From Ourselves?...  Horn-Loaded Speakers Forum     23  307214  09-19-2006
  »  New  8" Goto Woofer for 60Hz Horn..  It's not a Goto 8in driver...  Horn-Loaded Speakers Forum     5  84860  11-03-2008
  »  New  The Macondo’s Upper Bass Channel: what is next?..  Görlich again...  Horn-Loaded Speakers Forum     30  280951  10-28-2007
  »  New  Jessie Dazzle Project..  Will this better to be auditable?...  Horn-Loaded Speakers Forum     172  1514471  08-03-2007
  »  New  Romy The Cat's new Listening Room..  Won't be the last time he makes that trip!...  Audio Discussions  Forum     478  2792363  03-28-2010
  »  New  Problems with horns: upper bass ..  Must it be about loading?...  Horn-Loaded Speakers Forum     109  1134513  03-25-2005
  »  New  Midbass Horns and Real Estate...  Just a youtube video......  Horn-Loaded Speakers Forum     247  2070155  07-26-2009
  »  New  Macondo’s lowest channel...  What truly are you tryin to accomplish?...  Horn-Loaded Speakers Forum     150  1349981  09-15-2010
  »  New  Practical Guide for Back Chambers Tuning...  Back chamber’s cost-benefit....  Horn-Loaded Speakers Forum     5  73233  10-21-2006
  »  New  Superbly interesting effect: Suspended decoupled floor ..  Superbly interesting effect: Suspended decoupled floor ...  Playback Listening  Forum     0  17409  10-08-2010
  »  New  Midbass impedance bumps -- why and what to do?..  You need to stop deceive yourself....  Horn-Loaded Speakers Forum     18  187835  10-21-2010
  »  New  Mystery of bass horn calibration: Radiating Surface Dee..  Mystery of bass horn calibration: Radiating Surface Dee...  Horn-Loaded Speakers Forum     0  16679  02-03-2011
  »  New  Impulse response, short notes and midbass horns...  A possible solution to better impulse?...  Horn-Loaded Speakers Forum     14  123611  06-13-2011
07-23-2010 Post does not mapped to Knowledge Tree
jessie.dazzle


Paris, France
Posts 456
Joined on 04-23-2006

Post #: 126
Post ID: 14091
Reply to: 14088
Damping materials revisited
fiogf49gjkf0d
jd wrote:
"...There is a Spanish company that offers a solution in the form of a semi-cured, gooey, squishy, rubbery sheet with an adhesive backing on one side... It is about 1/4" thick, and is sold in rolls... It is very heavy; a pair of 2m x 1m rolls is about all you'd want to carry over any distance..."

Speaking from experience, I cannot imagine anything that would out perform this product. It would be ideal for your application, as you could layer it on as thickly as you wish. It can also be easily cut to fit between the stiffening ribs. Also, very importatn, its properties do not evolve over time; in my case, four years later the stuff reamins just as gooey and squishy as when first applied.

In my original post I mentioned that manufacturer has a US distributor; I double checked and it seems they do not, but they do supply out of Mexico (very much in keeping with the global nature of your project... Russian conception, English drivers, Baltic birch, American carpentry, why not Spanish damping via Mexico?).
http://www.texsa.com/index.asp?i=3&prod=14

JMTEXSA SA de CV
Lote 13, Manzana 4, Parque de la pequeña
y mediana industria Altamira.
Tamaulipas. C.P. 89600
Tel. Nacional: 01 800 712 2207
Tel. Internacional: 1 888 487 4977
Tel. Planta: 833 260 2510
Fax. 833 260 25 18
texsa(a)jmtexsa.com
http://www.texsa.mx

jd*


How to short-circuit evolution: Enshrine mediocrity.
07-23-2010 Post does not mapped to Knowledge Tree
Romy the Cat


Boston, MA
Posts 10,052
Joined on 05-28-2004

Post #: 127
Post ID: 14093
Reply to: 13597
How to finish my midbass horn
fiogf49gjkf0d
I was thinking and fantasizing about finishing of my midbass horn. My first idea was to paint it internally with the same color as my cathedral room. Perhaps a lighter grade of paint in the end as the horn goes dark. As the only mouths of the horns will be visible from room, imbedded into the wall I was wondering if any more interesting solution is available. I have open bricks patches in my listening room, very comfortable and sexy. I was looking at them and then the idea stroked me – why do not finish the horn with brick finish. Since my horn will be look like masonry object imbedded into the wall then the brick finish will be perfect for it, not to mention that it will be a greet mach to my room décor.

I did not see any exposed brick horns and I begin to look what is available. I found that there is a brick-like looking veneer. But I am afraid that it will make the horn skin a bit compromised. My carpenter advised me to look at wallpaper. I went to the wallpaper store and I almost had an orgasm. I did not believe how great and true wallpaper-like looking the wallpapers are nowadays. They have wallpaper that makes a brick wall to looks like a different age, there are even some that looks like it have dire and spider net on it. The quietly for good wallpaper is phenomenal – it feel like plastic and has a nigh-grain texture – perfect for horns. My only concern is that in 5 years it might peal and be source of some kind of noise in horns. I need to think about it and coals with people who know wallpaper well.

Anyhow, the brick finish is something that I VERY strongly consider. I can wait to tell my carpenter that he will be cutting the wallpapers in angle in order to maintain the exponential perspective in the bricks lying. I am sure he will be thrilled.

The Cat


"I wish I could score everything for horns." - Richard Wagner. "Our writing equipment takes part in the forming of our thoughts." - Friedrich Nietzsche
07-24-2010 Post does not mapped to Knowledge Tree
jessie.dazzle


Paris, France
Posts 456
Joined on 04-23-2006

Post #: 128
Post ID: 14095
Reply to: 14093
Wallpaper adhesion
fiogf49gjkf0d
If correctly applied using traditional "wallpaper paste" adhesive, unless exposed to humidity, it will not peel, and is in fact notoriously difficult to remove (requires aggressive steaming).

I have to say though that having a sort of aversion to non-truths, the prospect of a cheesy trompe-l'œil brick simulation does make me cringe.

jd*


How to short-circuit evolution: Enshrine mediocrity.
07-24-2010 Post does not mapped to Knowledge Tree
jessie.dazzle


Paris, France
Posts 456
Joined on 04-23-2006

Post #: 129
Post ID: 14096
Reply to: 14095
Bright idea
fiogf49gjkf0d
Another approach: Paint the horns to match the white of the existing walls/ceiling, then install light sources that shine from the mouth back into in the throats of the horns, using the horn as a sort of parabola to reflect light into the room. Two light sources per horn, one blue and one amber, with dimmers (your Pure Power unit will preempt the destructive influence of dimmers) allowing you to select warm or cool lighting according to your mood/body temp or the sort of music.

jd*


How to short-circuit evolution: Enshrine mediocrity.
07-24-2010 Post does not mapped to Knowledge Tree
Romy the Cat


Boston, MA
Posts 10,052
Joined on 05-28-2004

Post #: 130
Post ID: 14097
Reply to: 14095
I do like the brickish finish.
fiogf49gjkf0d
The brickish finish does not make me cringe, in fact I do like the idea. I do not feel that it would be some kind of non-truths. There is no truths or non-truths in it. The only a few first feet of the horn will be visible and then it will go to dark anyhow.  My view of the brickish finish is combined with my view of how I might finish the ender back wall. I like brick finish and I absolutely adore it as sound detractor surface behind the listening sit. So, my long–terms décor objective are to have the mouth of the horn to work beneficial and integrateivly in the room. So, I was thinking to finish the back wall right behind the listening chair with half-brick. Then to finish the rest of the wall with something like Eldorado Brick Veneer that has .5” death. Then the hors internals with brick wallpaper. If to arrange to match the brick, Veneer and wallpaper of the same color then it might look very good, considering that I have also in the room some brick islands.

I did not decide it finally yet but I know that if I want to lay vinyl wallpaper in the horns then I need to do it while the horn on the ground….

The Cat


"I wish I could score everything for horns." - Richard Wagner. "Our writing equipment takes part in the forming of our thoughts." - Friedrich Nietzsche
07-24-2010 Post does not mapped to Knowledge Tree
zako
Posts 85
Joined on 05-25-2008

Post #: 131
Post ID: 14099
Reply to: 14097
Venetion slats
fiogf49gjkf0d
My wife has been reading the site,,and commented,, To install verticle louvers over face of wall,,,1"x6" on edge,,like slats,, and paint white.
07-24-2010 Post does not mapped to Knowledge Tree
Romy the Cat


Boston, MA
Posts 10,052
Joined on 05-28-2004

Post #: 132
Post ID: 14100
Reply to: 14099
The Ventilation subject.
fiogf49gjkf0d
Yes, zako, the subject of ventilation and insulation is well-consider. The cathedral roof made well – it has the top ridge raised and vented. In addition I have powerful attic fan running on the other side of house. The heat insulation is another subject. I am planning to put some insulation at the bottom of the horn. Sure, from perspective of keeping the horn thermostabled it would be good to put insulation above the horn but then it would restrict the air convention right under roof, causing presumed problems (as I was explained).  Frankly I do not see very good insulation pattern for horn (I do not care about room). I even wonder if I need to put insulation around back chamber, protecting the driver and the back chamber from forming dew and etc. Someone even advised me to put thermostabled electric heater wires around the back chamber, those that are used to prevent ice dams on the roof…. I do not know. I never had an attic befoe and I do not know what the climate in there…

The caT


"I wish I could score everything for horns." - Richard Wagner. "Our writing equipment takes part in the forming of our thoughts." - Friedrich Nietzsche
07-24-2010 Post does not mapped to Knowledge Tree
Romy the Cat


Boston, MA
Posts 10,052
Joined on 05-28-2004

Post #: 133
Post ID: 14101
Reply to: 13597
How long will it take?
fiogf49gjkf0d

Make you bids ladies and gentlemen – how long would take to complete my midbass horn.

We broke the wall last Fridays and this Friday we made firth plywood cut. When I said “we” I meant truly not my carpenter and me but just my carpenter as my part of work at this point is just to walk around the bother my carpenter with predictions how he will fuck up. My carpenter woks 5 day per week, from 10AM to 5PM. He borough the machines in my home and set up as shop in one of the basement rooms. In that room he will cut the wood, glue the sections, then the section will be brought to the listening room, connected, the horns  will be beefed up, finished, lifted and installed in the attic. Then the room’s wall will be refinished.

My carpenter thinks that he would need 2 weeks to finish the job. I think that he is dreaming. I think that from where we now we are a good 4-5 weeks to be through. Since we agreed to make the wok for a fixed price then the money is not the factor for my carpenter to make it longer. Still I feel that on September 1 the project will not be compete. I hope I am wrong of cause.

Interesting that to cut the wood is much more complicated then I thought.  The problem is not with the multiple sections and multiple small plated but with the fact that each plate has to have proper angle on it’s sides to be properly glued to the neighboring sections. That all make it kind of complicated and my carpenter unfortunately is more thinking then cutting the wood. Sure, it is not as unfortunately as I am trying to make it, in fact I am a fortunate that I have not a moron carpenter. Still, thinking does not advance the time line and there is a LOT of work ahead of us. So, I think that if in the end of August we will be closing the project then I will be very lucky. I certainly do not in this project any 2-3 weeks of work.

CatInPaper.jpg

The Cat


"I wish I could score everything for horns." - Richard Wagner. "Our writing equipment takes part in the forming of our thoughts." - Friedrich Nietzsche
07-24-2010 Post does not mapped to Knowledge Tree
zako
Posts 85
Joined on 05-25-2008

Post #: 134
Post ID: 14102
Reply to: 14100
Insulation and horn mouth
fiogf49gjkf0d
The insulation in the rafters near the roof is very importent,,,I have some thing in the same area as you have, but much larger,,,That insulation is very important,,,,summer and winter,,,,,You will find out this winter,,,It will get to freezing temperatures,,,up there....After you finish your horn instalation,,,Think about proper insulation PLUS putting back some drywall on the ceiling rafter area with special circulating air slots to keep moisture from attic roof and insulation,,,Or your winter heating bill is really going to cost you,,,,I,m suprised how simmiler your home space is,, close to mine,,,You know how the winters are in Boston,,    Maron
07-25-2010 Post does not mapped to Knowledge Tree
wvdave
wv
Posts 4
Joined on 05-18-2010

Post #: 135
Post ID: 14103
Reply to: 14102
Insulation et al.
fiogf49gjkf0d
I too believe that you will want to insulate the roof itself as a partial means of regulating the thermal equilibrium in what will be the horn 'chamber', previously aka 'the attic'. The insulation on the floor of the attic was not installed under the roof because that was seen as 'heating and cooling unused space when said space was 'just an attic'(i find this to be foolish niggardliness, but that is not relevant here). The uninsulated space will take on the outside temp in the winter and a sunlight  enhanced oven effect in summer with temp variations fluctuating thru the day as with the outdoors. This situation can't be good for the horns as a whole or in the elements of their construction. Regulating the thermal environment of such horns may even allow a certain amount of 'tuning' of a sort-don't know, but I would experiment w/it after I had stabilized things as far as possible. Again, I imagine your carpenter has this under consideration(taking the existing floor/ceiling insulation out and venting would allow the chamber to come to thermal equilibrium w/the house[given suitable under roof insulation], whereas leaving the floor insulated along w/the roof would offer the opportunity of treating the chamber as an 'incubator' sort of area for the horns w/its own environment.
Your carpenter does have a task ahead of him in cutting what are a series of angles to construct the horns-thinking before doing is important here, especially w/expensive wood. I had thought to suggest a 'sandwich'  of 1" particle board(not the chip stuff, but sawdust mixed w/glue and formed under heat and pressure into sheets 4' x 8' coated on one side w/ spray on automobile undercoating(two or three coats to desired thickness, each cured to desired consistency between applications) then covered w/the birch to make a sandwich, with the birch being the exterior of the horn. The particle stuff is known for low resonance propagation and is very smooth, tough, and relatively cheap-but heavy. At this point I would have suggested cutting up some of just the particle stuff for practice and proof of concept before moving on to the sandwiching, etc.
As always, my ideas are just suggestions from someone not on the scene and they are not meant to impede the progress of those doing the work. I quite simply find this a fascinating project in line w/my own 'playback' interests. I also realize that since I am chasing my own projects of necessity, I may have missed something and be offering little that is relevant. But, onward, in any case.



Age Quod Agis
07-25-2010 Post does not mapped to Knowledge Tree
Romy the Cat


Boston, MA
Posts 10,052
Joined on 05-28-2004

Post #: 136
Post ID: 14104
Reply to: 14103
The voice of God machine and.... insulation-insmalation.
fiogf49gjkf0d
Ok, this all need to be rectified and probably will cost me a visit of insulation specialist. Sucks, I thought that I have an internal consensus about it.

My carpenter consider that Insulation must not apply under the roof but only to the rooms ceiling or the attic floor. According to him the space under the roof much be well ventilated and this servers a lot of benefits for roof protection. The house currently is made exactly like this - there is nothing under the roof but the attic’ floor has a lot of insulation installed. It is very possible that it is not a contemporary ways to do the things – the house is good 30 years old. I just do not know and I think I would need to consult with an insulation specialist.

The problem that I see is that if I need to apply some contemporary, let say foaming, insulation under the roof to keep my horn in sort of room temperature then I would need to do it with whole attic. I am not sure I would welcome an idea to convert attic to another livable space – I am sure this is where the insulation specialist would drive the project into. I have nothing important in attic besides the equipment boxes and I would like to keep it this way. So, I might eventually choose to use insulation only in the back chamber of my horns, not on the whole attic. I am sure it will huge be price and amount efforts difference. My rational is that the back chamber will be made with 2.5” plywood. This is a lot of thinness and my birch is marine-rated. I might just for a hell of it to apply some kind of high-end deck sealer to the outside of the back chambers to assure that it would be moisture immune.  I will have 5-6” between the chamber and I might wrap a few layers of some kind contemporary thermo insulation.

I do not know now. I do not think that a driver in back chamber would have the same thermo-demands as my in my bedroom. Still, I would like do not find that my magnet dot demagnetized because of temperature deviation or that my back chamber is rotten away from horn. So, a consultation with some kind isolation professional is in order. Another “confident” guy will be walking in my house and asking me: “What in God name are you trying to build here?” Lately I reply to them: “The voice of God machine….”

Cat_Raincoat.jpg

The Cat


"I wish I could score everything for horns." - Richard Wagner. "Our writing equipment takes part in the forming of our thoughts." - Friedrich Nietzsche
07-25-2010 Post does not mapped to Knowledge Tree
zako
Posts 85
Joined on 05-25-2008

Post #: 137
Post ID: 14105
Reply to: 14104
GOD MACHINE
fiogf49gjkf0d
Voice of God machine,,,I like that, very origional,,,Yes you must watch how insulation is placed up there so as not to cause moisture problems,,But remember you opened that attic chamber to the rest of the house,,,An insulation expert is a wise decision, and is not expensive...My wife likes your cat pictures,,,We are cheering for you.
07-25-2010 Post does not mapped to Knowledge Tree
Paul S
San Diego, California, USA
Posts 2,577
Joined on 10-12-2006

Post #: 138
Post ID: 14106
Reply to: 14104
Insulation, Ventilation and "Conditioning"
fiogf49gjkf0d
Romy, you've mentioned that the father and son team did a good job of balancing insulation vs. ventilation in the vaulted ceiling over your listening room.  While it might work to +/- replicate what they've done, at least in principle, perhaps you need only insulate around the horn and chamber, which will be tied to the "conditioned" part of the house via the horn, anyway.

Best regards,
Paul S
07-25-2010 Post does not mapped to Knowledge Tree
scooter
Posts 161
Joined on 07-17-2008

Post #: 139
Post ID: 14107
Reply to: 14105
Ice dams - experience
fiogf49gjkf0d
Hi Romy -

Do some research on the insulation and water problems of roofs in extreme situations (e.g. Northern Maine, Canada).  We can have these same problems in Massachusetts in January and February.  I had to deal with these painful issues at a quasi-insulated cottage in Maine. I see your attic having some of these problems as it moves from uninsulated to quasi insulated, heating your roof to higher temperatures.
My basic understanding follows, but you should research carefully before speaking with your roofing/insulation guy:

- Your case currently - An unheated house (or attic in your case) does not allow ice dams to form because the roof is not forcing snow to melt. Snow is not a real problem until it gets too heavy and just collapses the roof.

- Your future case if you don't plan properly - ICE DAMS - essentially the bottom layer of snow on your room melts/refreezes from house heat.  A layer of  water can not move up because of ice formed between the roof and the snow so the water creeps up under the asphalt shingles and finds a way to trickle into the house at seams, nail holes etc.  This ruins your shingles because they were not designed to be flexing and causes water damage inside your house (could be a few drops or a pretty rapid stream).  In Maine we used to keep the house at 50 degrees so the pipes would not burst and this caused ice dams.  We solved the problem by going outside and chopping the 2 inch thick ice the whole length o the roof from the gutter up about 3 feet.  This takes a long time, is dangerous and surely decreases the lifespan of the roof.  Now we just turn the heat off and drain the water system in the winter and close up the Maine place. No ice dams or leaks.

- Metal roofs are an option (because they should let snow slide off) but they are very expensive, noisy and have the problem at joints/nail holes. I don't see these in Massachusetts but do in Maine.

I am not going to comment on the quality of architecture and construction in New England but would assume your house is not over designed or overbuilt, so you need to think about this now.  Good luck!
07-25-2010 Post does not mapped to Knowledge Tree
Paul S
San Diego, California, USA
Posts 2,577
Joined on 10-12-2006

Post #: 140
Post ID: 14108
Reply to: 14107
Horn as "Room"
fiogf49gjkf0d
Scooter, many houses in the Northeast were roofed by people who understand how this works, and the first few courses of shingles are "underlain" accordingly, to preclude such seepage.

In Romy's case, I believe he could simply treat the entire horn like a "room", since the conditioned air from the house will moderate the horn's temperature, etc. via the horn mouth, in any case.

The floor/ceiling area under the horn would need special attention before the horn was installed, with high-value insulation going into the relatively shallow joist bays, before the horns were slid in.  Then, the horns themselves would need to be fully insulated, probably with foam, and the remainder of the "gable" wall from which the horn mouths emerge should also be fully insulated.  This would complete an insulated shell around the conditioned "space", and the attic, per se, could then be fully ventilated, as it is now.

Best regards,
Paul S
07-25-2010 Post does not mapped to Knowledge Tree
scooter
Posts 161
Joined on 07-17-2008

Post #: 141
Post ID: 14109
Reply to: 14108
Agreed
fiogf49gjkf0d
The Horn as a room concept is right on point. The key is insulating that room properly.  Many houses in the northeast were roofed by people that don't understand these issues, as is the case in the only two places I live (MA and ME).  A key issue in the ME house was that water shockingly has no problem migrating up the roof, against gravity, 10+ feet, rendering any protection at the first few rows ineffective.
07-25-2010 Post does not mapped to Knowledge Tree
Paul S
San Diego, California, USA
Posts 2,577
Joined on 10-12-2006

Post #: 142
Post ID: 14110
Reply to: 14109
Morons vs. Criminals
fiogf49gjkf0d
Scooter, sorry you've been treated to/by the Bad Guys.

"Good" tradesmen are those who know and insist on following proper protocols for their own regions.

Without a doubt, there are people who know how to roof a house in your part of Maine (or wherever), and among those people will be a select group who actually refuse to do it wrong.  On a good day, they can speak well enough to tell you why you should use them and not someone else.

The same, of course, applies in Romy's situation.

While a top price is certainly no guarantee of good results, a very low price is generally a good indiction that corners are being cut somewhere.  As the Romans used to say...

Best regards,
Paul S
07-26-2010 Post does not mapped to Knowledge Tree
Romy the Cat


Boston, MA
Posts 10,052
Joined on 05-28-2004

Post #: 143
Post ID: 14118
Reply to: 14108
The insulation controversy.
fiogf49gjkf0d

 Paul S wrote:
Scooter, many houses in the Northeast were roofed by people who understand how this works, and the first few courses of shingles are "underlain" accordingly, to preclude such seepage.

In Romy's case, I believe he could simply treat the entire horn like a "room", since the conditioned air from the house will moderate the horn's temperature, etc. via the horn mouth, in any case.

The floor/ceiling area under the horn would need special attention before the horn was installed, with high-value insulation going into the relatively shallow joist bays, before the horns were slid in.  Then, the horns themselves would need to be fully insulated, probably with foam, and the remainder of the "gable" wall from which the horn mouths emerge should also be fully insulated.  This would complete an insulated shell around the conditioned "space", and the attic, per se, could then be fully ventilated, as it is now.


I would like to keep this site dedicated to audio subject but unfortunately I moved astray. Investigating my insulation dilemma I did not know that I would step in the middle of a huge debate that is going on in industry. My dilemma is that I would like to have my horn insulated and to ask as a “house room” but top sides of the horns are the bottom sides of roof and applying insulation above the horn means to apply insulation under the roof.

I have research the contemporary high-tech insulation products – the open sell foals, like Icynene and alike. I can mix it with led or large sand and get my mass and isolation. The question is if it right thing to do. What I will be doing is creating what the industry call “compact roof” by applying the foam under the room preventing air to move through or around the bottom of the roof, creating a complete air barrier.

This becoming very fashionable practice of foam insulating the attic is raising eyebrows in the building industry because typical techniques call for attics to be ventilated. By insulation attic from room the room get much cooler on summer and much wormer during winter but it also raises the temperature of the roof’s shingles very dramatically and prevents the shingles to be warmed during the winter. The debts are going on between builders and between the people who sell foaming services. The first one hate it, the last one love it. It is not a big deal to buy a set of DIY-targeted TigerFoam or alike and to apply it to my horn’s outside but  I am still not convinced.

Hm, I am wondering …

The Cat


"I wish I could score everything for horns." - Richard Wagner. "Our writing equipment takes part in the forming of our thoughts." - Friedrich Nietzsche
07-26-2010 Post does not mapped to Knowledge Tree
Paul S
San Diego, California, USA
Posts 2,577
Joined on 10-12-2006

Post #: 144
Post ID: 14119
Reply to: 14118
The Conditioned Space
fiogf49gjkf0d
Yes, this sort of OT stuff is real drudgery; but unfortunately, it must be decided and implemented by the true OCD DIY Audio Guy for "best possible performance".

The two options with respect to keeping the horn "conditioned" (temperature and possibly himidity controlled) are: 1) to insulate the horn, itself, since conditioned air from the listening room will get inside it, anyway. 2) Insulate under the rafters and all around the horn, whatever that means, and introduce conditioned air into the space in which the entire horn sits.

FWIW, I would probably opt for #1, since it will be more efficient.

FWIW, I have done projects with both the "closed roof" and the traditional "ventilated roof", and the "new" system projects seem to be doing fine, over several years, now.

I still see no reason why the attic space, itself, could not be well ventilated if the horn were insulated. Is there any reason why a modern, low, full-length ridge vent could not be used?  This could ventilate by crossing even the foam-insulated rafter bays.  Cor-A-Vent makes several of this type.  Just open and screen some holes under the eves, and/or use gable end vents, for that metter. Cor-A-Vent is @ cor-a-vent.com

Best regards,
Paul S
07-26-2010 Post does not mapped to Knowledge Tree
wvdave
wv
Posts 4
Joined on 05-18-2010

Post #: 145
Post ID: 14120
Reply to: 14119
Ventilation
fiogf49gjkf0d
I would insulate the roof not by filling the spaces between the rafters, but by fastening sheets of 2' styrofoam(lightweight, stiff and readily available) across the rafters, thus creating open channels between the sheets and the roof between each pair of rafters. The bottom of each channel would be open to the outside via vents under the eaves, and the top would feed into a ridge vent. This arrangement allows for air flow under the shingles while isolating the attic interior from the outside.
Again, I am not on the scene, so this offering may well be irrelevant or unworkable in your instance; just more fodder for thought. Onward.



Age Quod Agis
07-26-2010 Post does not mapped to Knowledge Tree
Paul S
San Diego, California, USA
Posts 2,577
Joined on 10-12-2006

Post #: 146
Post ID: 14121
Reply to: 14120
R-Value and Damping Options
fiogf49gjkf0d
Plenty to chew on, here, including the minimum R-value (30?) one would want for attic/roof insulation in that part of the world.  I know of no styrofoam that provides R-30 at 2", but it is the end value that is important, along with code-required flame resistance.  What sort of insulation to use in this case will be determined by available space in some cases and the ultimate choice of closed or open-bay systems used, if some rafter bays must be "closed".

Romy made reference to a system that somehow combines foam with sand, but I would think this could compromise either or both insulation or damping, if the exterior of the horn itself were coated with this stuff.  Based on what I know now, I would first coat the horn with modified cement mortar, then I would coat it with appropriate insulation, likely some sort of specialty foam, like they use for commercial freezers, cold lockers, duct work, etc.

With the "new-type", "closed bay" system, one MUST use foam or the like rather than anything loose, like fiberglass, the idea being to prevent the sort of "steam" that can form, especially in flat roof and deck joist bays, in hot weather, along with the condensation that subsequent cooling can bring.  OTOH, if a full ridge vent is used and the attic is otherwise well-ventilated, one might simply insulate according to R-value and not worry about foam vs. fiberglass, open vs. closed bays, or whatever.

Best regards,
Paul S
07-26-2010 Post does not mapped to Knowledge Tree
Romy the Cat


Boston, MA
Posts 10,052
Joined on 05-28-2004

Post #: 147
Post ID: 14122
Reply to: 13597
...to confirm the 3D consept.
fiogf49gjkf0d

The first, the largest and the most complex part is done - the horn mouth. It is not glued yet, just temporary assembled to confirm all dimensions and consepts.

The Cat


"I wish I could score everything for horns." - Richard Wagner. "Our writing equipment takes part in the forming of our thoughts." - Friedrich Nietzsche
07-26-2010 Post does not mapped to Knowledge Tree
msaudio
Posts 45
Joined on 12-09-2009

Post #: 148
Post ID: 14123
Reply to: 14122
Back To The Stone Age
fiogf49gjkf0d
I Believe You made a mistake not useing a good horn maker. He is not bending long pieces of wood, he is putting a lot of straight small pieces to get away from forming long sides. Why is he not cutting long 1/16 inch slots along the backside of the sides so the wood can bend freely? Doing it his way, you will not have a smooth contour of a horn. Sloppy work and romy you know better. The sad part he has the tools in his room to doit correct.   Preaching Horn Religion   MSAUDIO
07-26-2010 Post does not mapped to Knowledge Tree
Romy the Cat


Boston, MA
Posts 10,052
Joined on 05-28-2004

Post #: 149
Post ID: 14124
Reply to: 14123
Did you just woke up?
fiogf49gjkf0d
 msaudio wrote:
I Believe You made a mistake not useing a good horn maker. He is not bending long pieces of wood, he is putting a lot of straight small pieces to get away from forming long sides. Why is he not cutting long 1/16 inch slots along the backside of the sides so the wood can bend freely? Doing it his way, you will not have a smooth contour of a horn. Sloppy work and romy you know better. The sad part he has the tools in his room to doit correct.  

I think you made a mistake by informing me about my mistakes without reading the thread. I told before that I have no intention to bend long pieces of wood and that my horn will be 7 chords. Did you see the scaled model above? I guess it was during your blackout period.

The Cat


"I wish I could score everything for horns." - Richard Wagner. "Our writing equipment takes part in the forming of our thoughts." - Friedrich Nietzsche
07-26-2010 Post does not mapped to Knowledge Tree
msaudio
Posts 45
Joined on 12-09-2009

Post #: 150
Post ID: 14125
Reply to: 14124
Yes I looked
fiogf49gjkf0d
It clearly showes in your mockup the thin side of the horn with a smooth bent contour not straight pieces. I have not missed anything from this fiasco. People give you way more credit then you deserve, your horn designs are very crude. Maybe You should call Jeffery Jackson up, and ask him to give you a few more pointers, this is sad. Let him know that these horns you are building are to be placed behind listening position and above your head about 10 feet and they are to be used at 42 hz to 180 hz. He might get a good laugh to just like me.  Preaching Horn Religion    MSAUDIO
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