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In the Forum: Audio Discussions
In the Thread: It’s mad, mad, mad... electricity.

Post Subject: Buzz-kill revisitedPosted by jessie.dazzle on: 2/22/2009

Romy wrote :

"...What I would do next is to lift ground at the 2000PP input – and then ground the PP2000 to your own ground. Make sure that no other devises on your playback use the main’s ground..."

drdna wrote :

"...I did this already; it did not eliminate the buzzing. Everything is plugged into the PP2000..."

Be sure to connect the chassis of only ONE audio component to the dedicated ground, allowing the other audio components to source ground via the interconnects. If you connect the chassis of each audio component to a dedicated ground, you will have several loops (sketch it out on paper to see what I mean).

The other way around this is to make interconnects that do not pass ground between components, and to source ground via the power cord and dedicated ground of the PP2000. This is safer, because components remain grounded in the event they are powered up when not connected (via an interconnect) to the rest of the system.

Before rewiring a house, you might consider making a quick dedicated test line as follows :

Buy a length of flexible (stranded) large-section 2 or 3 conductor insolated cable, long enough to reach from the main panel to the PP2000 (run it in and out windows if necessary; this is just a test) ; if such a cable is not easily available, buy a long, heavy-duty extension cord.

At the main panel, install a new 20 Amp breaker (or fuse holder in the case of an old house). Connect only the hot and neutral wires to this new breaker, leaving the ground wire disconnected. (If using an extension cord, cut off the male plug connector and strip wires as necessary).

Connect the hot and neutral wires at other end of the cable to the PP2000, still ignoring the ground wire. Ground the chassis of the PP2000 directly to a dedicated ground (water pipe, copper rod driven into the earth etc.).

jd*

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