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In the Forum: Audio Discussions
In the Thread: It’s mad, mad, mad... electricity.

Post Subject: The bypass operation observationsPosted by Romy the Cat on: 6/17/2013

Well, during the last 2 days with new PP300 I used the Bypass button for perhaps 12 times. The init is sitting under the rock and to engage the Bypass I need not only to bend my fat body into indecent position but to hold myself into that position for 5 second, pushing 2 (it was two!!!) uncomfortable, deep sited in a front panel buttons. This is so badly thought!!! I in fact would not even need a remote control but rather a wired remote switch that does exists in many other audio components, allowing them to be controlled remotely (Lamm for instance allows to turn the power amp from his preamps). I very much would like to have a remote wired switch that would run PP3000+ ll time in bypass unit I turn the power amp on. Would it be nice to have 12+ jack in the end to which I might connect a pedal from any pro audio shop and to turn the bypass mode my just hitting the pedal?

Some numbers. The power amps with frond-end run 1100W driver from PP3000+. The same load switching to bypass mode doe 970W. That makes PP3000+ to be 88% efficient, at least into my type of heavy input chock load. I wonder: with my typical use of playback how much electricity I would save a year if I use regeneration only during my critical listening? I am sure with the save electricity it would be powered a medium size Nicaragua town… Also, I it would be interesting to know if bypass operation bypass the protection that the unit most likely has. As I understand the in and out filters are still in path during the bypass mode but how about the fuses or any other surge protection breakers?

I have an interesting event. After good 15 hours of non-use (it means that Milq’s input chokes were completely discharged) I turn the bypass mode down and turned the power amps. As the Milq begin to charge the chokes the new PP went to temporarily bypass (old less powerful unit never did it) and everything went back to regeneration. The unit and the system were fine but I noted that the SpeedCook oven in the kitchen begin to show gibberish. It has a large display with all fancy information about type of cooking but now it was down. I rebooted the SpeedCook oven and it was fine. I do not insist that it was the result of PP input noise but I own this unit for 2 year and I have had any display problems. I do not think that it PP-related per se and it has fully to do with very high current my power amp suck during the initial charge. Still, of I put them in old unit or open walls then the power amps when start juts for a fraction of second dim the lights in my house (200A feed).With new PP it looks it throw some “radiation” when it passes high current and switches to bypass.

Anyhow, the Sound is still wonderful.

The Cat

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