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msaudio wrote:

Romy   If you would thank about what you are building and what it does, you would grasp the concept of my thanking. You have a 7inch hole on your bafflle with your woofer on the back side of it in a sealed box. The only presure that this device has is behind the cone from a sealed box and in the front of the cone were it is trying to figure out how to get threw the 7 inch hole. These are the area's that need to be real strong. After the sound goes threw the 7 inch hole there is no stress on anything, Sound will not buckel or deform the wood walls of your horn in any way. All you need to do is just remove the resonance of the horn skin, witch any long piece of wood has. This could be done with fiberglass and 1x2 strips. Also the resonance of the horn skin might be above the frequency that you intend to use it in the first place.  Good luck   Preaching Horn Religion    MSAUDIO

Yes, I know that back chamber and the mounting baffle need to be very strong – I spec them for 2.5” thickness. Regarding the “after the sound goes threw the 7 inch hole there is no stress on anything” – I very much disagree.  The resonances are very easy to detect by spilling sand over the horn skin and also by holding hands over the horn surface.  The people who REALLY build many bass horns (not the virtual horns of your imagination) almost unanimously report that mouth of the horns has maximum vibration from own sound. That is in complete correlation with what I experienced touching a few bass horns. If you report that sound does not stress anything after throat then I would question if you ever dealt with ether horn construction or with horn listening.

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